Monday, February 27, 2012

Surfing in Cape Town, South Africa, 1924

"The people had short curved boards and came floating in on the waves...I made for the bathing pavilion, and when they said would I have a surf board, I said 'Yes, please.' Surfing looks perfectly easy. It isn't. I say no more. I got very angry and fairly hurled my plank from me. Nevertheless, I determined to return on the first possible opportunity and have another go. I would not be beaten. Quite by mistake I then got a good run on my board, and came out delirious with happiness. Surfing is like that. You are either vigorously cursing or else you are idiotically pleased with yourself." From Agatha Christie's The Man in the Brown Suit

1 comment:

  1. And no mention about sharks...I'm sure there were a lot. :P Good read. Joe